Chez Georges - Rio de Janeiro

Taxi drivers get lost in the maze, the beaches are only seen in the distance and the streets are like climbing a ladder. All this and yet we highly recommend Rio de Janeiro’s colorful Santa Teresa neighborhood. Because of the bohemian atmosphere that is all around, the rustic cafes, but especially because of Chez Georges . A brutalist villa with seven suites, a music studio and swimming pool - high up the hills of 'Santa'. Chez Gorgeous!

Nothing about the quiet Ladeira do Mereiles 90 portrais sign of life. No sign, no nameplate, nada. Just a discreet entrance in the form of a huge facade made out of wood and weathered concrete. Behind it sits one of Santa Teresas’ best boutique hotels. Although we wouldn’t do Chez Georges justice naming it a 'hotel'. Because it is really the un hotel-like homeliness that makes Chez Georges unique. No busy lobbies and formal receptionists. No, your check-in here is the living room with soft bossa nova tunes, a fresh made caipirinha and if you like a tour through the villa by the hostess.

The villa is as colorful and tropical as the neighborhood it’s located in. And that is exactly what Pierre Bident Moldeva and Olivier Verwilghen (the men behind Chez Georges) intended the villa to be. They transformed a weathered 70’s villa into an intimate boutique hotel with an eclectic mix of styles. European like the owners , yet colorful and Brazilian - reflecting the spirit of Santa Teresa. The vintage furniture comes straight out of antique markets in Paris, Brussels and Ghent, while the chairs are designed by Brazilian artist Ricardo Fasanello (who has his studio just down the road from Chez Georges). Throughout the villa you’ll find piles of coffee table books and magazines such as Wallpaper and Directions - the magazine of Design Hotels of the World of which Chez Georges is a member.
Each space in the villa - from the living room to the small upstairs library - feels like a small art exhibition on its own. Carefully decorated with handpicked items - collected on one of the many travels of Pierre and Olivier.

The seven suites all bear the name of a well-known 'George' from the music industry. They vary between 25m2 Comfort Suites to spacious 50m2 Master Suites. All feature high ceilings with reinforced concrete, wooden floors and tropical decoration. In addition, all come with a king or queen size bed and a balcony facing south. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide with the best possible view of the surrounding Mata Atlântica rainforest and Guanabara Bay. The two Master Suites on the top floor of the villa offer views of the pool and the iconic Sugar Loaf. Furthermore, expect subtle nods to Brazil and Portugal, with colorful azulejos in some bathrooms and salmon colored Gaivota chairs from - there he is again - Ricardo Fasello.

Breakfast is part of the deal and is served between 08:00 and 10:00 in the living room or on the outside veranda. Expect fresh fruits, bread, coffee and tasty tapiocas.

The best way to spend your afternoon is at the 14 meter swimming pool with a panoramic terrace which almost seems to float above the rainforest. Lounge poolside with your favorite book, sip a fresh smoothy from the house and enjoy the lazy bossa nova music in the background. We would almost feel guilty leaving the villa in between all of this. No need though - because Santa Teresa has too much to offer to stay in. Recommendations include Mama Shelter for drinks or dinner, Aprazivel for Brazilian fine dining (reservations via Chez Georges receive a free welcome drink) and Parque das Ruínas with the Museu da Chácara do Céu for a culture fix.

Good to know: Chez Georges is one for those seeking tranquility. Expect few facilities and even less buzz around the villa. But that is exactly what makes Chez Georges a nice change from the hustle and bustle of Copacabana and Ipanema. Even if just for a night or two.

Chez Georges , rooms starting at BRL 890 (approx. EUR 195) per night incl. breakfast