Buhay Isla Expedition: by boat from Coron to El Nido, Philippines
With over 7000 islands you’re likely to end up taking a plane at some point while gallivanting your way through the Philippines. Practical but with zero adventure. Instead, at a handful of places you can also opt for a boat. Northern Palawan is such a place. Release your inner Robinson, sleep on deserted beaches, snorkel in secret lagoons and get bronzed while a backdrop of phenomenal islands passes by. Just a handful of things you should have missed from your airplane seat. We’re taking the three day Buhay Isla Expedition from Coron to El Nido.
The world’s most renowned travel magazines claim it the most beautiful island in the world, travelers instantly fall for it and the beaches are the type that need no filter. Palawan. The place where Alex Garland drew inspiration for his book 'The Beach' - which was eventually not filmed in the Philippines but in Thailand. All good: because where Koh Phi Phi has been become overcrowded ever since, Palawan is still paradise as ever. It comprises 1800 islands. Some inhabited, most not. All blessed with powdery white beaches, colorful coral reefs, hidden lagoons and limestone rock formations that almost seem to float above the turquoise waters. A dream.
C O R O N
Coron Town, 05:30 am. Despite the time of day it’s already hot. A wobly fan buzzes above us, the floor sweats. Another 2.5 hours before we disappear from the earth for three days. Buhay Isla (the sailing company that operates our trip) also does these of expeditions in four and five days, but in terms of time and adventure we thought a three day trip would do. After a quick breakfast and a rushed tuk-tuk ride to the messy harbor of Coron we would almost forget that we were about to board on our ultimate leisure trip. Leisurely, but basic we should say. When booking this adventure, it was emphasized that it will be like going to be back-to-basic. Away from civilization and right into Palawan’s paradise. Yet also paradise can be basic. Think along: sleep on deserted beaches, battling sand flies, mosquitoes and cockroaches, the risk of stormy crossings and all-day rain showers (after all, we were at the end of the rainy season - a few days after our trip Palawan would even get the tail of a typhoon) and more of that. But let’s not get ahead on things. Right now we stood in the harbor of Coron in the morning sun getting introduced with our fellow passengers. Four Belgians, eight Dutchies and an Australian. In addition an eight-headed Filipino crew, with Romz as experienced expedition leader. She has been with Buhay Isla for many years and knows the northern islands of Palawan like the back of her hand.
The engines started around nine o’clock and as the chaos of Coron Town slowly disappears from view, we head to our first stop of the day: Barracuda Lake. A bright ridiculously green lagoon enclosed by limestone rocks. 70% freshwater, 30% saltwater and with a pleasant temperature of around 30 degrees it feels like sinking into a hot tub. A little further on we anchored at the Skeleton Shipwreck. One of the many Japanese warships that went down around the Palawan islands during World War II. Interesting and all, but we were slightly distracted by the schools of Pennant coralfish that eagerly ate bananas out of our very hands. After our stop at Skeleton Shipwreck it was time to leave the waters of Coron, where we still were. We sail for hours and see uninhabited islands pass by in the distance. Sometimes empty, sometimes with a few turf huts, but always with a stretch of powder-white beach and thick rows of palm trees behind it. If there is heaven, this is it.
For lunch we stop at Ditaytayan Island. A small island with an elongated sandbar at the most northern point. The lunch was perfect, just like the rest of the meals we would have for the next days. Always with fresh fish, fresh fruit (including the sweetest mangoes ever), crispy vegetables, Turon's (fried spring rolls filled with banana) and rice. Sometimes with crab, other times with squid. Always caught fresh by the Buhay Isla crew. While we are venturing out on the deck of our fishing boat we are getting closer and closer to our base camp for the first night. Would it really be as basic as said during the briefing? It was already late afternoon as we docked at Araw Beach for a final short stop before base camp. Araw Beach is an arched stretch of beach, part of the islands of Culion. Buhay Isla has a base camp here, but it is not used for our trip. And as the sky already changes to pink we set sail towards our island for the night. By the time we arrive it’s pitch black and under the bright moonlight, the island looks almost like a fairytale. A hilly silhouette with flaming torches on the beach and bamboo huts behind it. Our boat anchors a bit offshore and we are brought to our base camp by kayak. Our place for the night is a relief - as far as we can see. Almost comfortable even. Bamboo huts with mattresses and mosquito nets, outdoor showers (read buckets, but still outside and under a starry sky), a palapa hut with a large dining table underneath and plenty of Filipino rum.
L I N A P A C A N
Seven o'clock somewhere of the islands of Linapacan. The sun shines through the cracks into the bamboo hut. The mosquito net above us is free of insects and spiders. Bueno. Outside the sea hugs the beach with calm sighs. Another day in paradise. It is still early but it promises to be another hot day. At daylight we only see how pretty our basecamp actually is: set between palm trees, on a stretch of beach with a tropical coral reef just meters in. While we head out for an early morning kayak and marvel at the aquarium underneath us, our base camp slowly wakes up. The crew tells us that today will be a good day with good weather, short sailing distances and some quiet snorkel stops.
The islands around Linapacan are our playground for today. Coconutting the day away at places like Kala Kala and Manlegad Island, relax on Asis Beach and jump off cliffs. Not a word was lied: today was a good day.
Our base camp is on the same island as yesterday, but set on a different beach. And whilst in the evening our crew prepares another delicious meal, we took out our Filipino rum and bottles of coca cola again. Our Australian friend plugs in a little speaker and in no-time we were all toasting under the palapa hut. Jack Johnson and The Beautiful Girls out of the speaker and well filled glasses of rum and coke on the table. Life is good in the Philippines.
On the menu a pumpkin curry from their own vegetable garden. Needless to say it was another tasty meal. Also nice: at Buhay Isla they understand that a deserted island adventure isn’t complete without a bonfire. On the beach, under a clear starry sky. What did we say? Life is amazing in the Philippines! Tired but satisfied we head to our bamboo huts around ten. Outside our hut is now cacophony of crickets, inside the rustle of insects. Amen to our mosquito net.
E L N I D O
Our last day and we were far from done with this adventure. For a moment we even regretted we didn’t just book the five-day trip.
Today’s final destination is El Nido. Without a doubt the most backpacked region of Palawan. The coastal town of El Nido itself is nothing spectacular. It is crowded, the infrastructure is poor and the hotels are either rather basic or super-expensive (often set on private islands around El Nido). It is really the surroundings of El Nido that draws the crowds. Spectacular limestone formations, a colorful underwater world and hidden turquoise lagoons. With two of these lagoons we would end our expedition. While we sat out on the deck of the boat in the sun, we head towards a pitch-dark cloth of rain. Exactly around El Nido. Guess we won’t be seeing Big Lagoon and Cadloa Lagoon (the lagoons in question) at bright daylight. Lucky as we were the downpour was only short and the skies cleared up while we gently sailed into Cadlao Lagoon.
Packed with snorkels we tumble into the crystal clear waters on last time. Once again to spot starfish, anemones with clown fish, octopuses and countless other fish. Also one last boat lunch before we end this trip with a bang: the Big Lagoon. Our last stop of the expedition before we return to civilization. The packed clouds show a silver lining and occasionally it was drizzling a bit. While we anchor our front of the Big Lagoon our kayaks are prepared and in no time we paddle into the lagoon. Little comfort: even without a clear blue sky the lagoon is a beautiful sight.
By the time we arrive to El Nido it is already dark and it starts to pour again. The harbor of El Nido is packed and we climb ashore with our luggage via a cargo ship. A big hug to our fantastic crew and our fellow passengers (who made the expedition memorable) while we look to find a taxi to our hotel. Moments later, while we’re soaked in the back of a tuk-tuk on our way to our hotel I realize I wouldn’t have want missed this adventure for gold.
A final note: the great thing about Buhay Isla Expeditions is that they do what they do out of passion for their islands. They are a group of enthusiastic islanders who are happy to show you the Philippine island life. Expect small groups, a professional crew, good food and no idea of time or agenda.
3-day expeditions from Coron to El Nido and vice versa are available from EUR 250 p.p. 5-day expeditions start at EUR 375.
www.buhayisla.com